April in this part of the world can have the most perfect days, not too hot, not too cold….just perfect. Easter Friday 2012 was one of those days. Time for a ride then.
I left home at about 6.10am, the streets were wet from an early morning shower as I rode towards the city and through the tunnel to the southside of town. The road was deserted being Easter Friday so I had probably the best run through I have ever had. I was sort of expecting a bit more traffic to be honest but glad there wasn’t. By the time I got to the other side of Ipswich, the air was a little cool and I stopped to put on my wet jacket over the top of my normal road jacket to cut the wind.
I stopped at Boonah to top up my fuel as I was heading down through an area with no fuel stops and the next fuel was almost at my tank limit. Just a precaution that I could have easily done without but pushing a 250kg bike is not my idea of fun.
It’s a pleasant ride to the end of the Fassifern Valley where Boonah is situated. The mountains in the background are where I’m headed.
These mountains are part of the Great Dividing Range that extends the entire eastern coast of Australia. The early settlers had trouble breaching the range in the early years and only managed a few places across. Even now there are only a handful in a few hundred kilometers.
One of these roads is the The Falls Drive through The Head Road. This road goes up in two stages to the top of the range. The first is through a twisty tree lined narrow road that passes through running creeks then up the side of the mountain. It pays to keep your wits about you on a bike here as some of the next 20km is unfenced with cattle on the road and this means shit all over the road in places. There are also kangaroos and wallabies ready to jump out at the sound of a car or bike. Normally these are most dangerous around dusk or even dawn but today I saw quite a few and had to brake quickly a number of times.
The climb up is steep. Not really sports bike territory but I have seen them here. The road is not fast, cars and 4wd’s are often coming down around blind corners so it pays to take it easy.
The view from the first step is great, to the left is a waterfall that drops about 100 metres. From here on a good day you can see for miles to the north east.
After this the road takes you through one of the prettiest valleys I know of. The soil here must be first class as the trees, Eucalypts and Pines are magnificent and as large as you see anywhere in Australia. this valley is home to a few dairy or beef cattle farms and once again it’s best to keep an eye out for the beasts.
At the end of this valley is The Head which you can see as you ride through the trees and across the landscape. This area is significant because it is the start of the longest river system in Oz. The water that collects here eventually flows through the Darling and Murray rivers to drain into the Southern Ocean south of Adelaide.
Right next to the lookout here is a restaurant and weekend cabins called Spring Creek Cottages. Nice place to have lunch if you are in no hurry. Further along this road as you travel toward Killarney are a number of waterfalls, the most well known is Queen Mary Falls. I kept going down to the Killarney turnoff and turned left.
This then will lead you over the Queensland, New South Wales border at the top of the hill. Heading this way, I kept pushing on though to the small village of Legume. Legume sits on the Mt Lindsay Highway and if you turn left here it takes you to Woodenbong, back over the border at Mt Lindsay itself and eventually gets to Beaudesert. Having been this way before on a bike it doesn’t appeal because the road to Woodenbong is…well lets just say it’s crap shall we?
So I continue straight on towards Tenterfield.
For those who don’t know it, the Mt Lindsay Highway from Legume is 93km long and a great riding road. It is wide, smooth with long sweeping corners and a few twisties. It also doesn’t have much traffic. In 93km I saw about 10 cars….three of which I overtook. The problem for most people is that it also has dirt. But as I discovered, the dirt starts at about 15km out of Legume, goes for about 5km, then becomes blacktop for a few km then dirt for about 3km then bitumen until about 55km from Legume for a final stretch of 4km of dirt. So all in all 12km of some of the best fine gravel roads I’ve ever driven on. It is smooth, well graded and can comfortably cope with 80kmh on a decent size cruiser.
A really pleasant ride actually. I can understand guys being worried about a bit of dirt but this is better than some of the bitumen I will ride over the rest of the day.
Riding into Tenterfield at about 10.15am I had covered 300km on different surfaces in four hours.
The trees are turning on the New England this time of year. Tenterfield is a quaint town that holds a special place in our history as the birthplace of Federation. Where we became an independent country. This should be enough but I find it a bit of a mix really. Some of it is very nice but other stuff leaves a lot to be desired. Like they lean too much on their heritage.
So I fuelled up and kept rolling down the New England Highway.
Quite a good road but can be a bit boring for a bike. The police keep a close watch and I saw a few. The traffic was not heavy at all so I rode for about an hour then stopped at Deepwater which is a small town before Glen Innes to have a burger and a coffee. The first real stop I’d had all morning.
From Deepwater I rode south some more until Dundee which is really just a siding and turned left along Dundee Bald Nob Road…what a name! This was about the roughest road I was on all day. It is a shortcut from the New England across to the Gwydir which goes across the Gibraltar Range and down to Grafton. The ten or so km of this road was enough and I was glad to get back on a main good road. Again, not much traffic, in fact I passed a caravan a couple of times along the way with my stops.
One of the stops was at Rasberry lookout. Facing south and looking over more of the Great Dividing range, it is a high point and a pleasant stop. I looked at the time and realised it was 6 hours since I’d left home. I figured I was about half way but with a lot of unknown before me so I had better get moving. You can see I still have my wet jacket on as the air up on the range was quite cool.
The ride down the mountain was fun, some fast stretches and only one car to pass. I eventually caught back up with the caravan as I reached the bottom and we travelled beside the Mann River.
At this point the air was much warmer and I stopped to remove the wet jacket. These things are great to cut the wind and keep you warm but if it’s humid, they become unbearable.
The road from here took me to Grafton and I rode through the city centre and up to Casino about an hour away. There were a few spots of rain along this road but other than that it’s quite boring. Not very scenic. I stopped at casino and fuelled up. I had travelled 327km since Tenterfield and topped up with 14.95 litres. Good mileage for an old-ish bike. It didn’t miss a beat.
I figured I could get home on one tank from here so after a Red Bull and a chocolate, I got back on the bike and headed north.
Promptly getting lost!!
I don’t know how but I missed the turn to Kyogle and had to double back a bit to find my way. I do use a phone app Called MudMap and this is great to get me out of places I don’t know. It works as a GPS and can pinpoint me without phone service signals. Ideal for biking.
I rode north to Kyogle, carried on straight through towards the border. By now It was getting late in the afternoon so I was pushing it and not stopping. From Kyogle there are two ways to get to Beaudesert. Through the Lyons Road, which is scenic but a bit rough and twisty but shorter, or head north to the Mt Lindsay highway east of Woodenbong and then across the border. This was the way I headed. It was fast. I saw up ahead of me what looked like an ambulance but even though I was pushing, I couldn’t catch it. I did eventually catch up just as reached the turnoff and he had been slowed by another car.
The ambulance turned left, I went right and pulled up to put my wet jacket back on. It was cold again with the sun behind the hills.
Following the Mt Lindsay again, I crossed the border and headed towards Beaudesert. By the time I reached it the sun was down and darkness was setting in. I stooped for half an hour to let it get properly dark. Cars don’t seem to see you as well in half light, but in the dark with all the lights on it appears safer to me.
I followed the main road north to Brisbane then hopped on the arterial road that skirts around the city and across the Gateway bridge.
I was home just on 7pm having travelled 892km in almost 13 hours.
Quite a day. My ears were ringing for a while and the effects of the journey took a while to wear off.